Mobile RV Electrical and Solar Repair Across Florida
Shore-power diagnosis, converter and inverter service, panel and breaker work, full solar installs (200W to 1000W+), lithium battery upgrades, and 12V/110V trouble-shooting.
Who: RV owners with shore-power problems, dead batteries, converter or inverter trouble, or anyone wanting solar and lithium upgrades.
What: Shore-power diagnosis, converter and inverter service, panel and breaker work, full solar installs (200W to 1000W+), lithium battery upgrades, and 12V/110V trouble-shooting.
Where: Across Florida. We service every RV class wherever it's parked. Call (833) 465-8787.
Electrical is the one system that scares most RV owners more than it should - and the one most folks try to fix themselves before calling us. I get it. Twelve volts of DC seems harmless until you find out it's running through 4-gauge wire that can light a fire if you cross it wrong. We see a lot of "I tried to add an outlet and now nothing works" calls.
The flip side is that most RV electrical problems are simpler than they look. About 60% of the "my outlets aren't working" calls turn out to be a tripped GFCI in a place the owner forgot existed (the bathroom, behind the couch, in the bay). Another 25% are converter problems. The rest are real wiring issues that need a meter and a wiring diagram.
Why Electrical & Solar Fails Faster in Florida
RV electrical systems combine three different worlds: 110V AC from shore or generator, 12V DC from your battery bank, and (if you've got an inverter) 110V AC inverted from 12V DC. They share grounds and they share neutrals and the points where they meet are where most failures happen.
The most common failure point is the converter - that's the box that takes shore power and charges your batteries while running your 12V loads. Converters fail two ways: they stop charging (battery slowly dies even on shore power) or they overcharge (batteries cook). Either way, replace it. The second most common failure point is shore-power cord ends that have been pulled, twisted, and left in a wet bay long enough to corrode.
What We Fix - Electrical & Solar
What Our Electrical & Solar Service Includes
Electrical service calls start with a meter sweep. We check incoming shore voltage at the inlet, voltage at the panel, voltage on each breaker, converter output to the batteries, and battery voltage under load. That's our standard "is it producing" sweep and it tells us where the failure lives.
From there we dig into wiring, replace components, or scope the converter/inverter pair. Solar installs are scheduled separately - those run a half-day to two days depending on system size and whether we're trenching the bay for new cable runs.
Full system meter sweep
We start every electrical call with a top-to-bottom voltage check. No guessing - we measure what's working and what's not.
Converter / inverter service
Progressive Dynamics, WFCO, Magnum, Victron, and Xantrex - we replace and tune all the major brands.
Solar systems on-site
Roof panels, charge controllers, inverters, lithium banks - whole-system installs done at your campsite or driveway. No shop drop-off.
Code-compliant
Every install follows NEC Article 551 and NFPA 1192. We pull permits when the city wants them. We don't cut corners on grounding.
Common Electrical & Solar Repairs and Pricing
Here's what most calls actually run. We give you a phone-quote range before scheduling, and an exact written quote at your site before any work starts.
Typical Pricing - $145-$5,800
- Converter replacement (Progressive Dynamics 9100 series): $585-$985
- Inverter replacement (1000W-3000W): $785-$2,850
- Shore-power cord replacement: $245-$485
- Surge protector / EMS install (Progressive Industries / Hughes): $385-$685
- Lithium battery upgrade (single 100Ah Battle Born equivalent): $1,250-$1,850 per battery installed
- Solar install (200W weekend kit): $1,850-$2,850
- Solar install (600W with MPPT and inverter): $4,250-$5,800
- GFCI replacement: $145-$245
- Breaker replacement: $185-$345
Florida-Specific Electrical & Solar Considerations
Florida lightning is the #1 reason we replace surge protectors and converters. If you're staying in central Florida between June and September and you don't have a hardwired EMS (Progressive Industries HW50C or equivalent), get one. We install them in about an hour, and they pay for themselves the first time a campground pedestal kicks 200V at you in a thunderstorm.
Salt air is reason #2. Coastal storage corrodes shore-power cord ends, generator transfer switch contacts, and any exposed bolted lugs. If you're storing on the coast, plan on cleaning and dielectric-greasing those points annually.
Emergency Electrical & Solar Service Across Florida
If you're smelling burning plastic, seeing smoke, or hearing arcing - shut the breaker off, disconnect from shore power, and call (833) 465-8787. Don't try to find the source yourself unless you can do it from outside the rig. Electrical fires move fast and the wood paneling in most rigs goes up like kindling.
Less-urgent emergencies: total loss of 12V at a campsite, no shore power coming through, or an inverter that's tripping breakers. Call us and we'll work through it on the phone first. Sometimes it's a flipped breaker we can talk you through. If not, we'll roll a truck.
Electrical & Solar Specialties We Handle
Common subspecialties under electrical & solar - all done at your location, all in one visit when possible.
Solar Installation
200W weekend kits to 1000W+ off-grid systems. Renogy, Victron, Battle Born, and Go Power. Done at your site.
Lithium Upgrades
100Ah and 300Ah lithium swaps with charger reconfiguration. We also do DIY-build review for folks who want to source their own batteries.
Converter Service
Progressive Dynamics, WFCO, Magnum, and Inteli-Power swaps. Plus Charge Wizard add-ons for smarter charging on lead-acid.
Inverter Repair
1000W to 3000W pure-sine units from Magnum, Victron, Xantrex, and AIMS. Repairs and full replacements.
Shore Power & Surge
30-amp and 50-amp shore-cord replacement, EMS installation, and pedestal-side adapter sets.
Generator Auto-Transfer
Transfer switch replacement, contact cleaning, and amperage upgrades for rigs running larger inverters.
Electrical & Solar - Common Questions
Straight answers from our electrical & solar call log.
My converter died - is the battery damaged too?
Maybe. If the converter was overcharging (running over 14.8V into a lead-acid bank), the batteries are probably cooked. We test specific gravity in flooded batteries and run a load test on AGM and lithium. If they pass, you're fine. If not, plan on replacing them. - Marc
Can you install solar in a day?
200W weekend kits, yes - usually 4-5 hours. Bigger systems with battery banks and inverter swaps run a day-and-a-half to two days. Most folks want us to come back for the second day so they can check progress overnight.
Should I switch to lithium batteries?
If you boondock or run a big inverter, yes. If you live on shore power and just need light loads, lead-acid is still cheaper. We help size the bank to your actual use - we won't sell you 600Ah of lithium if 200 is plenty.
My EMS keeps tripping at this campground - is it broken?
Almost certainly the campground pedestal, not your EMS. The whole point of an EMS is to trip when shore power is bad. Move pedestals if you can. If the next pedestal does the same thing, the campground has a wiring issue and you should tell management.
Can you add a second battery bank?
Yes - we do this on Class A's with bay storage all the time. Usually adds 200-400Ah capacity and runs $1,850-$3,200 depending on bank size and BMS configuration.
Do I need a 50-amp service if my rig is 30-amp?
Only if you're adding load - second AC, larger inverter, induction cooktop. 30-amp service is plenty for most travel trailers and Class C's. Don't over-engineer.
My slide-out fuse keeps blowing - what is it?
Either a binding slide that's pulling too much current, or a chafed wire where the slide harness flexes. We diagnose both with a load test and a visual on the harness path. - Marc
Can you wire in a generator?
If your rig didn't come prepped, yes - we install generator-prep kits, transfer switches, and the 30A inlet receptacle. Plan on a half-day.
How much for a complete electrical inspection?
$245 for a full meter sweep, panel inspection, ground continuity check, GFCI and breaker test, and a written report. Worth doing on a used rig before you commit.
Will my warranty cover converter replacement?
If the rig is under manufacturer warranty, the dealer handles it. If you're outside warranty but the converter is still under its individual product warranty (most are 2 years), the converter manufacturer may cover the part - we do the labor. Bring us the paperwork.
Where We Provide Electrical & Solar in Florida
Bolt RV Repair runs electrical & solar jobs across these Florida cities. Click your closest one for local-specific info, response times, and campground coverage.